Week #7: from Maupiti to Maupihaa
After two weeks in Maupiti, it was time to move on to the next... and last island. Last island because Maupihaa is the most western island of French Polynesia before crossing to the Cook Islands... It seems like we sailed to the end of the world and discovered paradise!
Maupiti to Maupihaa
After our longest sail ever (!), a full 100nm crossing, we arrive in Maupihaa 24h after leaving Maupiti. Making it inside the lagoon is our final challenge as the only pass into the atoll is famous for being one of the narrowest in French Polynesia… and the only markings are 2 small white sticks at the narrowest point of the pass! Today was our lucky day as there was little outgoing current (2kt max) and we arrived just in time for the 10am sun to show us the way between the reef and the coral heads welcoming us into the lagoon.
It is hard to do Maupihaa justice only with pictures and videos, it just feels like the end of the world... To enjoy this beautiful lagoon, steaming with life (all sizes of fish and so many birds), we had to fly all the way to Tahiti, sail as far west as we could to the edge of French Polynesia and cycle to the very end of the island to this hidden paradise. What an amazing feeling!
From Hampi to Maupihaa
Making it to Maupihaa is not such an easy journey and we feel so lucky to have made it. The truth is that we had a bit of help…
First, we always rely on Ganesha to remove obstacles along the way. As we settled on Wallis, we arranged a small Ganpati shrine that travels with us. We always pick a few flowers on the way (which is not very difficult around the islands) to make sure our Ganesha is happy on our little boat. But for this trip, we got some extra help from Lord Vishnu…
All the way back in January, we visited Hampi in Karnataka and spent a bit of time in a temple where priests take turns to sing mantras throughout the day (possibly 24x7, but we did not have a chance to confirm). One of the priests took us to the Vishnu shrine for a pooja, and asked us to make a wish. He gave us a small Om bracelet to keep with us until our wish is granted.
Well… My wish was for Wallis, Yamini and I to make it safely to Maupihaa! After we arrived, as we were walking around the island, I tied the bracelet to a small tree in front of one of the most beautiful beaches. Grateful for being here.
Welcome party
There is an unspoken bond between sailors and the Maupihaa family. Sailors bring supplies the family needs (sometimes transporting family members) and in return the family treats them with incredible hospitality. A bond over basic humanity in this paradise. Our first night in Maupihaa, the sailing couples were invited to Adriennes house and almost everyone from the island was there. A French-Canadian couple with a Catamaran called Nanuk, have become good friends over the last 1.5 months as we have crossed paths across islands.
The party started with Seb playing the guitar and singing Polynesian songs while everyone enjoyed Indian daal patties (made by us). Seb learnt these songs when he was in Polynesia for his military service in 1997. It was such a memorable moment as Harry and Adrienne got emotional listening to their traditional songs. The entire family sang along and appreciated Seb so much. They believe that Seb has a Polynesian soul.. I think they are right!
Adrienne and Karina had set up a table with a bright Polynesian table cloth, fresh coconuts and so many dishes - lobsters , coconut crabs, fish carpaccio , fish in coconut milk, rice, beans and salad. We ate the best meal we have had so far in Polynesia and finished with coffee and banana cakes. Before we knew it, it was sunset and we had to head back to our boats, hearts full of love and hands full of leftover lobsters!
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