May: new islands & sailing level up !
After a month in the safety of the Leeward Islands lagoon, we set sails south to the Australes archipelago to push our limits and discover new Polynesian islands.
Pushing our limits
We are now back in the safe lagoon on Huahine that we left almost 2 months ago. During these 2 months, we sailed over 1,200 nautical miles which is quite a stretch for us. The first crossing from Maupihaa to Rurutu was over 375 nautical miles and took us 3 days and 3 nights to complete, sailing along side another sailing boat for our peace of mind and safety. This is not a well travelled route but we did cross a couple of sailing boats, most likely on their way to Cook Islands or New Zealand; we also saw a French Navy warship patrolling the area. After sailing between the Australes Islands over the month of May, we headed back to Huahine on another 340 nautical miles sail north. This time we did not see any other boat until the last night, when we got within 30 nautical miles from Huahine. It was just the two of us…
Every passage brings new experiences and new learnings. Our main challenge this time around (other than sailing into the unknown in fairly remote parts of the Pacific Ocean) was weather planning which is important for many reasons. First, to have an idea of when to leave and when we will arrive, which is Important to get organised and get the logistics right. Second, for safety as we need to make sure that we are not going to find ourselves in some dangerous weather system that could put Wallis (and ourselves) at risk. And finally, for comfort. Sometimes delaying our departure by a few days can make a major difference in terms of sailing conditions: perfect wind conditions, smoother swell, less wind shift and therefore less changing of sail configuration while under way… This applies to any crossing but becomes more challenging when planning long passages, as the weather forecast becomes less accurate beyond 3 days. This implies comparing different forecast (we typically use up to 3 different models on Wallis) and ideally updating these forecast while under way. Fortunately, modern technology makes things a lot easier. We use a weather routing tool called PredictWind that can analyse several routes based different departure dates and applying different forecast, and can always connect to Starlink while sailing to get the latest updates. It was not so easy only 10 years back !
Another great discovery was our self steering system, which we tested for the first time. On crossings, we would typically use our built-in autopilot to steer the boat for us, it does a much better job than we do and does not need to rest… The only downside is that it draws electricity from our on-board batteries, which is not really an issue when sailing in the South Pacific Ocean with good solar panels. Still, it is good to have a back up plan in case of failure that does not imply one of us having to steer 24x7… A self steering system is a mechanical contraption that steers the boat to maintain a set angle to the wind (check out the photos). These systems were used by cruisers for decades and work surprisingly well. It is magical to see the boat steer itself for miles and miles, with the invisible help of the wind.
Our experience is building up with every crossing. We are now more familiar with the boat and how it sails. It is amazing to see that we can go the same 6kt speed with 10kt of wind, flat seas and all sails out; as in 25kt of wind with reefed sails (reducing our sail area). As you can imagine, the level of comfort is not the same in these two situations. We also learn how to deal with issues that pop up on Wallis, some of them can be fixed on the spot (like a punctured dinghy), while other will have to wait until we get back to the shipyard or get new spare parts. We need to change our jib furler that is not furling anymore. We also noticed that our dagger board compartment is leaking (!), we had to soak up a bucket of water every 24 hours on our sail back to Huahine. Not ideal when you are on a sailing boat in the middle of the Pacific Ocean :)
We love Tubuai
The Australes are the southern most archipelago of Polynesia consisting of the islands of Rimatara, Rurutu, Tubuai, Raivavea and Rapa. Located notably South, one of the first things you notice in Tubuai is the cooler climate! Windows on Walllis will stay closed and a hot water shower was welcome on arrival. Yes we do have hot water on Wallis (but only after we have used the engine). The engine heats up the water and it stays hot for a couple of days. To enter the Tubuai pass we had used the engine! Only one of us got the privilege to use this hot water and the other had to freeze in the cold shower - can you guess who?!
We arrived on a Saturday in Tubuai and the next day (Sunday) went for a 10km run. We did not see any human or car on the road! It was so quiet. The anchorage is peaceful and close to the village center. We were 3 boats in total, and had to report to the local Police Station as per protocol in the Australes islands.
Monday morning, the action began. The main village has one small supermarket, one restaurant, couple of food trucks and ladies selling vegetables and fruits on small stands. Yay, we saw people. Not many considering this small island has a population of 2,200 inhabitants. We were so happy to buy fresh fruits and veggies after almost 1.5 months! The earth here is very fertile and the veggies are delicious. And the feeling of going to a restaurant after 1.5 months is also amazing!
The following days we discovered the island by cycling tour along its 25km road, hiking up Mt Taita'a, the higher of the two peaks at 422 meters and kite surfing on the pristine lagoon. For us, Tubuai has to offer everything we love - spectacular lagoon, one of the best hikes, kiting spots, lovely beaches, sweet and friendly locals and just big enough so you can cycle your way anywhere.Our time here has been so energizing and we left with a feeling of gratitude to be able to visit places like Tubuai - a paradise on earth but not frequently visited. Thank you Wallis!
Family time in Rurutu
After an amazing time in Tubuai, we decided to sail back to Rurutu because coincidentally our friend Dorita (who lives in Tahiti but is originally from Rurutu) happened to be visiting her family and we couldn’t miss this opportunity of seeing her in her hometown. For us, the best way to visit a place is with a local, because you see things from a different perspective. So we set sail early morning and made it through the dodgy Rurutu pass the next day.
« Ruru » means all together and « tu » means to stand. Community living is something that defines and sets apart Rurutu. Here, weddings take place only once or twice a year and everyone who wants to get married, gets married on those days. The entire island participates in the wedding planning - making gifts for the couple(s), preparing the wedding decorations and the feast for the 2000+ people! Another great example of the community living is the public plantation - in several parts of the island fruit trees were planted for everyone to go and pick the fruits they want. We got to try the pamplemousse which were in season and they were yum! They would also be the highlight of our long sail back from Rurutu.
Dorita took us around the island, visiting her uncles, aunts and cousins. Her aunt (moms sister) who is 87 years old was thrilled to go for a drive with us to visit her village artisanal shop. Rurutu is famous for its handicrafts - bags and hats - hand made from natural materials. It used to be her aunts profession in her younger days, when she had more strength in her wrists. We bought such an amazing hat for Seb, bag for myself and some decor for Wallis. It’s sad to think that artisanal work will perhaps cease to exist at some point, given that the young generation chooses other careers, processes get replaced by machines and demand decreases.
We got to share a meal with Dorita’s family and also hike up mount Manureva with her niece and nephew, which apparently is the thing to do in Rurutu! It was a peaceful hike with beautiful view of the south of Rurutu (the island is shaped like the African continent) We also visited one of the mysterious and magical caves of Rurutu. Overall, Rurutu comes across as more rough due to the lack of a reef and people preferring their privacy; but thanks to time with Dorita and her family, we had a great time!